For me — as I imagine for many others — the aurora was always this magical, almost unreachable phenomenon I longed to see. I used to think that Norway and the Nordic countries were distant, far-off places, impossible to visit – mainly due to finances. That changed when we met M. and I noticed that you can just go (free)camping and be there basically for free, and suddenly those places didn’t feel so far away anymore. Our trip to the Lofoten Islands sparked a deep passion for the region, and now my dream is to explore even more remote areas like Svalbard — and maybe someday, Antarctica. Though that still feels very far off.
So, we decided to go to Tromso to see the aurora. M. had already been there and spoke so enthusiastically about the city, and it was also part of my birthday gift. The contrast couldn’t have been bigger — one week in tropical Guatemala, and less than seven days later, above the Arctic Circle! From the vibrant light and warmth of Central America to the cold, dark atmosphere of the north — at least that’s how I imagined Norway in winter. But I was quite wrong! Despite the polar night, Tromso is surprisingly bright during winter, with plenty of lights everywhere. I loved it.
We enjoyed daily walks from our Airbnb — which had awful reviews but we actually loved it — into the town, grabbing burgers at Burger King, sipping on ridiculously expensive ciders, visiting the local library, and soaking up a relaxed, easygoing rhythm (while still managing to get some work done).
One highlight was the local sports center, which we visited just before it closed. It was inexpensive and had an amazing vibe, complete with saunas and an outdoor pool. We tried to catch the aurora from there but the light pollution made it impossible. Interestingly, during the polar night — when the sun never rises — cross-country skiing trails are lit 24/7, so you can ski anytime you want. In fact, the entire island never truly feels dark — Norwegians are so well prepared for the long winter nights.
Aurora Hunt 🌌
We saw the aurora several times, but the biggest one was on an aurora hunting tour. We learned that you don’t really “hunt” the northern lights — instead, you’re trying to find breaks in the clouds. Our guide was was great: natural, passionate, and an Australian who had left her regular job to pursue seasonal work that allowed her to spend time on her hobbies like bikepacking. I loved how she described her journey.
The aurora we saw that night was especially rare — as soon as we stepped out of the bus, we saw not only the typical green glow but also subtle shades of pink and purple, which don’t happen often. I remember being freezing cold, so cold that later I could barely move and was glued to the warmth of a campfire we made.
That night, I found myself thinking about our guide and how beautiful it must be to have a job where you get to witness so many people’s dreams come true in a single moment. And asking myself – why did i never had the courage to also just finally be more engaged in things that I feel that matter?
Toward the end of the trip, we also got to see huskies and a dog sled team, which was something I had really wanted to experience. What really surprised me, though, was how much they smelled! We also spotted a reindeer – so cute walking by himself, which was the perfect little addition to the whole Arctic experience.
I think this journey only confirmed for us that we will return to Norway — and specifically to Tromso — again, but next time in summer ❤ ️ To experience the endless daylight. And with Cassoumi by our side.’
.. and 2 culture pics for the end – White Lotus crowd and us on the snooow during the last day lunch walk which felt so nice to just have such a beautiful nature just around our house and to walk in the crunchy snow ❄️.. and it is also one of the last pictures in my twenty-sixtieees 🙁 (and also last one with this headband – I lost it very soon after in Prague’s metro – as also my other favourite headband – and also so many other favourite and dear objects of mine)
